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Kim, the chef and an owner of two restaurants in Brooklyn, compares Korean food to the cooking of southern Italy: Both make good use of humble ingredients. She devotes nearly half the book to banchan, the small plates of pickled, fried and stewed bites, familiar to anyone who has ever eaten Korean barbecue.
Fry Pan Cookies—And a Midwestern Christmas Story
Her classics pass the test: I made kongjang, a banchan of soy-braised black soybeans, for my Korean mother-in-law. She asked for the recipe. Somewhere along the way, a Tuesday-night recipe became shorthand for something easy to execute after work, softball practice and piano lessons. Often, sheet pans and pasta were involved.
And often, the meal was, well, serviceable.
Few among us will craft a fermenter from a Styrofoam cooler. Still, we might salt blueberries and let them ferment for five days, and be very happy to spoon them over yogurt. I made it three times, once by the book, but also substituting peaches and then fresh figs for apples, with success each time.
Recipe: Norwegian Apple Cake. When it comes to cooking, simple is a relative term. I particularly adored the pasta with pecorino and pistachios, lamb with almonds and orange blossom, and baked rice with tomato confit and garlic. Many of the recipes have fewer than 10 ingredients and can be made in under 30 minutes.
While a lot of cookbooks meet these criteria, few have Mr. Read our new profile of Mr. Sharma here.
For the anxious pie maker, she includes detailed instructions that are mercifully easy to follow. Recipe: Peanut Butter-Paprika Cookies.
Lo's voice — dryly funny, straightforward and occasionally tender — shines through in every recipe, which taken as a whole reflect the way a carefully stocked, international pantry makes American cooking more simple and delicious. There are no photographs, but the pages are filled with Julia Rothman's charming illustrations. Recipe: Cauliflower Chaat for One. The result is a beautifully designed and inclusively written account of modern Indian cuisine that embraces a multiplicity of tastes and techniques.
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Book Reviews by CHEW Members and Others | Culinary History Enthusiasts of Wisconsin (CHEW)
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